Anatomy of a Needle – More than meets the eye!

Posted on June 28th, 2009 in Sewing Tips by sara

Written by Carol Meyer (Sara’s Mom)

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I got new tires on my car the other day and it got me thinking how marvelous they are to move a very heavy automobile at high rates of speed. Then I started thinking about the needle in a sewing machine that also moves at very high rates of speed, and can sew faster than you can blink your eye.

While sewing machines themselves are wonderful pieces of machinery, the needle’s specific design makes the sewing process happen. Liken it to tires on a car if you will. No matter how well the car or sewing machine runs, the car won’t go anywhere without tires, and you won’t sew anything without a needle. But do we know anything about the way needles are made and what they actually do?

The first thing we all learn about needles is that there is a flat side on the top part and that the flat side faces towards the back when you insert the needle into the machine; remember “flat to the back”. You may have never looked any more closely at a needle than that except to thread it. However, there is more to it than meets the eye.

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The stitch forming process has a lot to do with the machine and everything to do with the needle. If you have never noticed before there is a long groove the goes down the front of the needle. You can feel the groove by running your fingernail, or something sharp like the pointed part of a seam ripper, down the front of the needle. I’ll bet most of you never saw it or knew it was there.

When the needle goes down though the fabric, the thread lays into that groove. The size of the needle and thread must coordinate so the thread fits appropriately into the groove. If the needle is too small, or the thread is too thick, it will not fit into the groove and the stitches will not form correctly. You may even think there is a tension problem.

As the needle goes down into the bobbin case area there is a part there called a hook (I like to call it the “magic stitch maker”) that has a sharp point which moves around the bobbin area. When the needle is at the lowest position the point of the hook is right there to grab the thread from the needle. It is not until the needle starts to move upward with the thread nestled into the groove on the front side, that a loop is formed on the backside which the hook catches. The hook carries the thread completely around the bobbin case. The top thread and bobbin thread are twisted around each other and a stitch is made.

On the back side of the needle around the eye is an indentation called the scarf. The scarf allows the hook to get closer to the loop of thread. It gets so close to the needle that it almost touches; there is an infinitesimally small clearance between the two. If the needle is bent, even slightly, the hook could miss catching the loop, resulting in skipped stitches.

The diameter of the shaft of the needle determines the size, and the appropriate size should coordinate with the fabric and thread. There are two numbering systems for needle sizes, the American system (10, 12, 14, etc.) and the metric system (70, 80, 90, etc).  When the package says 80/12 it is referring to the same size of needle referencing both numbering systems. Which ever system you choose to remember is just numbers on a scale; the smaller the number the smaller the diameter of the needle, and the larger the number the larger the diameter. Size 80 or 12 is the middle size for average cotton fabric. Heavier fabrics use a larger size and lighter fabric can use a smaller size.

Home sewing machine needles will fit all brands of machines; however, not all needles are created equal. There are a number of minute differences in types of needles and point styles. Unless you have extremely good eyesight for seeing very small things you will not be able to see these differences without a microscope. Fine tooling makes some needles handle specialty threads better, or point styles that are specific for different types of fabrics.

It helps to have a system for knowing which kind of needle is in your machine. Some brands are color coded, but for the ones that aren’t you can color code them yourself with different colors of nail polish. A bit of color where the shank flares at the top coordinated with the same colored spot on the package is one way to know which needle is which after it is out of the package.

Where thread and fabric meet, it does not matter how much you paid for your sewing machine, if you do not use the right needle it will not sew well. Certainly if it is bent or broken you must replace it, but when you start a new project it is good time to start with a fresh needle. In terms of dollars, if you have spent $25 for fabric, thread and notions, spend $0.75 for a needle. If you have used five full bobbins for your project, which will be quite a lot of sewing, it is time again to put in a fresh needle. Like changing the tires on your car where the rubber meets the road, don’t wait until there isn’t any tread left to take care of the most important part of the journey.

© 2009 SewSara, Sioux Falls, SD. All Rights Reserved.

Kate Snuggerud - 2 Months

Posted on June 27th, 2009 in Kate Snuggerud, Sewing Tips by sara

We have decided to upload pictures of Kate around the 27th of each month. With so many of you asking to see pictures and us not wanting to over take SewSara.com with her pictures, this should be a happy medium. :)

Again, thank you for all your well wishes and gifts. They have been much appreciated over the last 8 weeks!

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Happy 4th of July!

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Helping Dad with the Heirloom Creations website.

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Hanging out with mom.

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Taking a walk at McKennan Park.

It’s only 6 Months ’til Christmas!

Posted on June 21st, 2009 in Sewing Tips by sara

christmas_graphics_07.gifDid you know that on June 25 it is exactly 6 months until Christmas? Even though summer has barely arrived here in Sioux Falls, it is hard to start thinking about the holidays just yet. But with “Christmas in July” on our minds for next month’s Sewtopia Sewing Club topic, we ARE already looking at tree skirt patterns and great gift ideas.

Sewtopia Sewing Club - “Christmas in July”
Tuesday, July 14
10am, 2pm or 6:30pm

For us, we ordered 2009 Christmas fabric around December 15 LAST YEAR! Can you believe it! And it starts to arrive as early as April. But if you want the best selection before all the good stuff is gone, you need to start planning and shopping very early.

Below are a few ideas and links to inspire your holiday spirit. So heat up a cup of hot chocolate, put on your Santa (thinking) hat and continue reading…

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Did you know Heirloom Creations website has links to all the fabric companies FREE patterns? Click here to see the list!

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Shown: FREE Pattern from Moda “Figgy Pudding”

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Shown: FREE Pattern from Moda “Jingles”

“I Believe in Santa” by Nancy Halvorsen and Benartex Fabrics. Nancy Halvorsen is known for her great holiday project books ART TO HEART using all her fabric panels and fabric lines.

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“Crazy Eight” is by Sandy Gervais and Moda Fabrics. We used one of Sandy’s patterns that borders her newest “Crazy Eight” panel. Patterns, panels and fabric are available through Heirloom Creations.

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Shown: FREE Pattern from In The Beginning Fabrics “Wintergraphix”

With so many wonderful holiday fabric lines arriving, be sure to come in early to have the best selection!

And before you know it, Easter fabric will be arriving in November - go figure!

Can I Use Any Bobbin In My Machine?

Posted on June 14th, 2009 in Sewing Tips by sara

Did you have any idea there were so many different kinds of bobbins?
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Sewing machine accessories, like bobbins, seem to have a way of being held over from machine to machine. Often a box of bobbins wound with various colors of thread finds its way into a new sewing machine’s bobbin collection. If your machine has more than one style of bobbin with it, take a moment to find which the correct one for your machine is, and discard the rest.

The size of a bobbin must match precisely with the machine’s bobbin case. Just because a bobbin seems to be a similar size, the slightest difference can wreck havoc for its owner.

A sewing machine’s bobbin case tension set properly is based on the machine’s correct bobbin type. If a machine uses light weight plastic bobbins, the tension will be set differently than for a machine that uses a metal or heavier bobbin. Switching between plastic and metal bobbins will result in an unbalanced tension.

Bobbins that are too tall will interfere with the stitch formation especially for some machines with drop in bobbins. When a stitch is taken, thread will not be able to clear the top of the bobbin resulting in a wound up mess in the bobbin area.

Bobbins that are too small can fall out of the bobbin case of front loading machines as you are inserting it into the machine…the bobbin falls to the floor and runs away saying, “catch me if you can!”…very annoying!

To avoid unnecessary headaches, ALWAYS use the bobbin specified by the sewing machine manufacture. If you are unsure, which bobbins are the correct fit for your machine, stop by our service window with your machine’s make and model, and a sampling of your bobbins. We will sort them for you and show which the correct ones for your machine are.

Hate running out of bobbin thread in the middle of a project?

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Check out the SideWinder! Never be without a full bobbin again! And the best part, you don’t have to unthread your sewing machine to wind a bobbin. The SideWinder comes with a plug in electrical cord or use optional batteries.

Once you have wound extra bobbins, store them in a Bobbin Saver.

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Bobbin Savers keep filled bobbins neat, tidy and secure. The thread ends won’t unwind and become tangled. A Bobbin Saver full of filled bobbins travels well and they will not spill out, even when turned upside down. It is also easy to keep different weights of threads organized, like embroidery bobbin thread and regular sewing threads. Or if you have more than one brand of sewing machine, keep the bobbins separated with different colored Bobbin Savers, available in red, blue or lavender.

© 2009 SewSara, Sioux Falls, SD. All Rights Reserved.

Iron Cleaning Sheets

Posted on June 7th, 2009 in Sewing Tips by sara

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There is nothing worse than an iron with gunk on its sole plate! Maybe it was from the last time you used some fusible web and you have been meaning to clean it off before the next project. But you forgot and now it is burnt on and starting to smear onto the next project - ugg! Time to pull out your secret weapon!

Getting anything off the bottom of an iron can be an ugly task. Who wants to stop their creative wheels to clean an iron anyway?

Now there are new Iron Cleanin Sheets by Bo-Nash to the rescue! They are quick, easy to use and leave us with no excuse for messy irons. Take one sheet, heat iron and clean!

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They kind of look like dryer sheets!

To use the new Bo-Nash Iron Clean sheets:

1.  Heat iron for 1 minute on a high setting.

2.  Lay IRON CLEAN sheet on top of a paper towel on the edge of the ironing board.

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3.  Wipe base of the iron over IRON CLEAN sheet on the edge of the ironing board until the residue is removed.

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4.  Wipe base of iron with clean paper towel.

If several months of buildup has occurred, repeat the process until clean.

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Bo-Nash Iron Clean $4.99
10 sheets per package

Available from Heirloom Creations - 605-332-4435

My New Favorite Bag - The Miranda Day Bag

Posted on June 1st, 2009 in Sewing Tips by sara

It is a great feeling when one takes the time to sew a special bag and it instantly becomes a new favorite! That is what happened to me recently, and my new favorite bag is the Miranda Day Bag by Lazy Girl. I made it with plans to use it as Kate’s diaper bag. Once we started to make small trips away from home, it soon became clear that its style, size and the inside pockets are perfect for the variety of on-the-go baby items needed.

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The bottom base is 6” wide and 12” long to give an idea of its size. The sides are firm and it sits upright without falling over. This is especially helpful when looking through it one-handedly while holding a small squirming child.

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The Miranda Day bag’s moderate yet roomy size easily doubles as a “personal assistant” with the many inside pockets to keep everything organized. For baby they keep wipes, pacifier, diaper cream, and bottles all in plain sight. I have used the extra pockets for my own wallet and keys when I don’t need to take another purse.

No Baby? Did I mention the inside pockets? File folders, magazines, cell phone, note pads and pens all fit nicely into tidy pockets that are easy to see. Never loose a necessary item again!

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The Lazy Girl patterns are known for full color pictures and easy to read instructions. It is easy to see their professionally made patterns have been tested many times, and they are well-written, even for the beginner sewer.

Take a class: Heirloom Creations is offering the Miranda Day Bag class on Thursday, June 25, 2009 from 6:30 - 9:30pm. Call to reserve your space! Click here for a supply list…

For our store sample of the Miranda Day Bag, we increased the height of the bag by 2”. Come in and check out the newly adjusted size.

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The Lazy Girl pattern company is also the supplier of our much loved Bag-E-Bottoms. Bag-E-Bottoms are 1/8” thick acrylic bases available in several sizes to give their most popular bag, purse and tote patterns a sturdy bottom. Click here to see all available sizes.

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Many of the Lazy Girl patterns including the Miranda Day bag and Bag-E-Bottoms are available from Heirloom Creations. Call 605-332-4435 to have a pattern set aside or mailed to you.

To see other Lazy Girl bag patterns, click here.

Alzheimer’s Art Quilt Initiative Update - 2009

Posted on May 24th, 2009 in Priority: Alzheimer's Quilts Project, Sewing Tips by sara

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Click here to see recent Kate Snuggerud pictures…

More than 1,000 Priority quilts, including several donated by Cleo and Sara, went to the 2008 International Houston Quilt Show for the Alzheimer’s Art Quilt Initiative. Almost 900 quilts sold during the four day quilt show which brought in more than $45,000 for Alzheimer research.

The “Priority: Alzheimer’s Quilts” project, is so named for the urgent need for research dollars, and the requirement that these quilts must fit into a cardboard USPS Priority mailer without folding. They are small works of art no larger than 9 inches by 12 inches. They are auctioned on the first day of each month (see below), sold outright on the Internet, or sold at selected venues across the United States.

Consider making a quilt, being small they are relatively quick, or purchasing one or more….they make great gift items too. There is a wonderful variety of themes, colors and styles, enough to choose just the right one for yourself or others.

This project is special to both Cleo and I as Alzheimer’s runs in our families.Cleo’s Quilts

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Sold for $45

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Sold for $45

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Sold for $45

Sara’s Quilts

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Sold for $40

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Sold for $45

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Sold for $45

Here is a sampling of some of the quilts that will be auctioned off June 1 - 10, 2009.

Keep in mind that these quilts are no larger than 9″ x 12″!

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Click here to view ALL the quilts that will be auctioned June 1 - 10, 2009.

If you would like to participate in the Alzheimer’s Art Quit Initiative, click here for more information.

Click here to view ALL quilts sold and waiting to be sold!

Watch for future updates of quilts donated by Cleo and Sara Snuggerud.

Kate Snuggerud - Week 2 & 3 Pictures

Posted on May 23rd, 2009 in Kate Snuggerud by sara

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May 9, 2009 - First Day home from the NICU

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Mother’s Day - May 10, 2009 - 4 Generations

Stan & Jean, Gary & Cleo, Steve & Sara, Kate

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First visit to Heirloom Creations

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“I can’t believe mom made me finish 3 bottles!”

S U P E R HERO Needle !!

Posted on May 17th, 2009 in Sewing Tips by sara

…faster than a speeding bullet….able to leap tall buildings with a single bound….No, wait. That is Super Man. But in the sewing world, we do have our Super Hero Needle!

Do you wish a needle would last 5 times as long?

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Try a Titanium Needle! (Read about titanium at wikipedia.com) “The two most useful properties of titanium are corrosion resistance, and the highest strength-to-weight ratio of any metal.”

A titanium needle combines the functionality of sewing machine needles with the latest technology of ceramic coatings. These new needles have a titanium nitride layered on their surfaces to extend their productive life by as much as five times that of conventional needles.

Sewing productivity is limited by the life of a needle. Titanium needles are more wear resistant than conventional chromium plated needles. They also provide perfect reliability and durability in prolonged stitching operations. The strength of the needle has been reinforced while maintaining a perfect shape in order to provide greater wear resistance and durability.

Titanium needles are easily identified by their distinct gold color. At the core of Titanium needles is a standard nickel or chromium-plated needle. This coating, while only a few microns thick, is extremely hard and gives the Titanium needle the edge when it comes to heat build up and wear. And, yes, friction from the needle passing through fabric at high rates of speed creates heat.

Ceramic’s ability to resist heat build up on your needle means fewer thread breaks. This is particularly important with certain high abrasion fabrics such as vinyl or heavy denim. The hardness of the ceramic coating helps to reduce wear caused by friction and abrasion. Your needle point, while not any sharper, will stay sharp longer than regular nickel or chromium-plated needles.

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One of the myths revolving around Titanium needles is that they won’t break as easily as regular needles. The truth is, Titanium needles will break just as easily as regular needles. LINK TO SEWING OVER PINS Given the fact they are actually the same needle at the core, that stands to reason. The ultra thin coating of Titanium Nitride reduces heat and friction, but it does not make the needle stronger. Dull needles are a major cause of breakage. Since Titanium needles stay sharper longer, you may experience less frequent breaks. Changing them helps alleviate the problem too, even though you may change them less often.

So stop in and give the Titanium Super Hero needle a try. You will be glad you did.

Sewing Genes

Posted on May 10th, 2009 in Sewing Tips by sara

By Sara’s Mom, Carol

While anticipating Kate’s birth, I detected an extra note of excitement in Sara’s voice when she realized she might be a mother in time to celebrate Mother’s Day this year. Unbeknownst to us at that moment her birth was to be sooner than we knew, and in plenty of time for this year’s Mothers Day celebration. It is such a blessing having Kate in all our lives, and she is life changing for us all. She is a first for us, not only for Sara and Steve, but we are all reveling in our status change: first time Grandmothers, Grandfathers, Great Grand mothers and fathers, and Uncle and Aunts. Little Kate couldn’t have asked for better parents, and this the new Grandparents know well.

Now it waits to be seen if Kate inherits the “sewing gene”. Being around many sewers in the store we sometimes hear that sewing skipped a generation. They are referring to the scenario that the mom does not sew but her mother and her daughter do, i.e. it “skipped” a generation.

But here is Kate who comes from a strong line of sewers on both sides of the family. My own mother always sewed. From my earliest memories I recall her at the sewing machine, and to this day, at age 82, she still likes to sew. And I remember watching my Grandmother at her treadle machine which I later inherited. But it was when my mother got a new machine when I was 10 years old that I had an insatiable desire to learn to sew and make my own clothes.

I have always had a machine and it became a point of fascination for young Sara. Without electricity, at the age of three she could thread the machine and turned the hand wheel to “sew”. When she was six I cut large squares and she made her first quilt.

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At age 13 she took a quilt class and then made a quilt a year for the fair. We’ve had a laugh that we knew so little about real quilting back then.

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For a number of years I earned a living sewing and doing alterations. I tried to not push Sara to sew like me, but when she needed a dress for a dance in 10th grade, she went to the fabric store, and bought fabric and pattern. Then she brought it me and said “Here, Mom”. I was a little busy at the time so she opened the pattern, spread it out and cut the pieces apart. I could almost see the light go on as she laid the pieces out on the fabric.  She could see how the pieces fit together, so she cut them out, threaded the machine, and sewed her first dress.

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Sara’s sewing career began at age 15 when she got an after school job at with the local Bernina dealer. That was when the first machine that could stitch letters was available. I, too, began teaching classes in the store. We both witnessed first hand the explosion in technology in the sewing machine world.

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We saw the first embroidery machine. We learned to use the computer and embroidery software. Sara worked directly with the Bernina educational editor, and later became a Bernina educator, traveling all over the country, even to Switzerland where Berninas are made.

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So it was while Sara was traveling to far away places that she first met Steve at a new dealer training. She also heard about him from another one of the educators as someone she “has to meet”. Steve was interested in helping his mother, Cleo, who some years previous decided to open a quilt store. Two years after Steve and Sara were married Cleo persuaded them to come back to the store….and the rest, now, is history.

So you see, with two grandmothers that sew, and parents that sew and operate the best quilting store around, we might expect little Kate to have the “sewing gene”. Certainly she will be immersed in all the rhetoric and lingo from early on…will her first word be “sew”? Will Sara let her thread the machine and turn the hand wheel at age three? Will she sit beside her mom as she sews and learn by watching? With so much sewing influence from all sides, Nana here says, buy her a pony, but I already hear that Steve says she wants a boat!

Little Kate, whatever the future holds, you are SEW Blessed!

Love, Nana

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